The Guide

Investing Basics

A clear, jargon-free walkthrough of how to think about stocks, build a portfolio, get in slowly, evaluate a name, and avoid the most common mistakes new investors make.

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01The right mindset

Investing is not gambling and it's not get-rich-quick. You are buying small pieces of real businesses. Over long periods (10+ years), the stock market has averaged roughly 7–10% per year after inflation. That's the prize for being patient.

The single biggest edge a small investor has over a Wall Street pro is time. You don't have to perform every quarter. You can sit on a good company for a decade. Use that advantage.

Core principle

Think in years, not days. Most of the noise on financial news doesn't matter to a long-term investor. Tune it out.

02Building a portfolio

A good portfolio is diversified, spread across enough things that no single bad bet can wipe you out, but concentrated enough that your winners actually move the needle.

ETFs vs. individual stocks

You want a mix of both, but the right ratio depends on how much time you'll actually spend researching. If you don't want to read 10-Ks, lean ETF-heavy. If you do, individual stocks are where the real outperformance lives, that's the path I take.

ETFs (the floor)

A basket of many stocks bundled into one ticker. Owning VOO or VTI means you own a slice of the entire market. Low fees, instantly diversified. They keep you in the game if your individual picks underperform.

Individual stocks (the engine)

Picking individual companies can dramatically outperform the index, but requires research and conviction. The real money is made by owning a few great businesses for a long time, not by spreading thin across hundreds.

How I allocate (an active investor's framework)

  • ~30% broad-market ETFs, your floor. An S&P 500 fund (VOO) or total market (VTI). This is the "I can't lose to the market" base.
  • ~50–60% in individual stocks, 10 to 25 companies you've researched and believe in. Concentrated enough that winners actually move the needle, diversified enough across sectors that no single blow-up kills you.
  • ~10–20% in speculative / thematic bets, small positions in higher-risk ideas. Sector ETFs, micro-caps, crypto, asymmetric "lottery tickets." Money you can afford to be wrong on, but where one home run can outperform your entire core portfolio.

This is more concentrated than a textbook portfolio. The trade-off: more upside if you're right, more volatility along the way. If you don't want to spend time researching, flip it, go 70% ETFs and skip the speculative sleeve.

Position sizing

No new individual stock should be more than ~8–10% of your portfolio when you buy it. If a winner grows past that, great, let it. But don't start overconcentrated. Speculative bets should be small, 0.5% to 2% positions. You own a basket of them so even if half go to zero, the survivors pay for the rest.

Diversify across sectors, not just tickers

Don't own five tech stocks and call yourself diversified. Try to spread across sectors that move on different drivers, tech, healthcare, financials, energy, industrials, consumer. When one zigs, another zags. If you do lean hard into one theme, the AI buildout, say, make it a conscious bet, not an accident, and keep enough spread elsewhere that one bad call can't sink the whole portfolio.

03Getting in, don't go all at once

The biggest mistake beginners make is dumping their entire cash pile into the market on day one. That's market timing in disguise, and you'll have no dry powder if the market drops 15% next month.

Dollar-Cost Averaging (DCA)

Instead of buying $10,000 of a stock today, buy $1,000 a month for 10 months. Some months you'll buy at higher prices, some lower, but on average, you smooth out the volatility and remove the emotional pressure of "is now the right time?"

Why DCA works

It enforces discipline. You buy mechanically regardless of headlines, which is almost always better than trying to guess tops and bottoms. The market is unpredictable short-term but trends up long-term.

Keep some cash on the side

Always keep a portion uninvested, call it 5–15%, so when the market panics and good companies go on sale, you have ammo to buy. Cash is a position too.

Add more on the dips

When a quality stock you already own drops 15–25% on broad market fear (not on a real problem with the business), that's often a chance to add to your position at a discount. This is the opposite of what most people do, they sell into fear.

04How to evaluate a stock

Before you buy a company, you should be able to answer four questions: What does this business do? Is it priced fairly? Is the momentum on its side? Is the sector growing?

1. Fundamentals, is this a real business?

  • Revenue growth, is the top line growing year over year?
  • Profitability, is the company making money, or burning it? Look at net income and free cash flow.
  • Debt levels, too much debt is a red flag, especially when interest rates are high.
  • Moat, does the business have a durable advantage? Brand, network effect, switching costs, scale?

2. Valuation ratios, is the price reasonable?

The three ratios that actually matter most of the time: P/E, P/S, and PEG. The catch, they only mean something when you read them alongside the growth rate. A "high" P/E is fine for a company growing 40% a year; a "low" P/E is a trap if growth is going negative.

P/E ratio Price ÷ trailing 12-month earnings. Lower = cheaper, but only relative to peers and growth. S&P 500 averages around 20×. Mature companies sit lower, growth names higher.
Forward P/E Same idea using next year's expected earnings. This is far more useful for fast-growing companies, a stock might look expensive on trailing P/E (e.g. 60×) but cheap on forward P/E (25×) because earnings are about to jump. Always check both, and lean on forward P/E for growth names.
P/S ratio Price ÷ sales. The right tool when a company isn't profitable yet but is growing fast. Compare against peers, software is normally 8–15×, industrials 1–3×.
PEG ratio P/E ÷ growth rate. Built specifically to compare expensive fast-growers against cheap slow-growers. Under 1.0 generally signals a reasonably-priced growth stock. Over 2.0 = the price is ahead of the fundamentals.

Always check the growth rate. Revenue growth tells you if the business is actually expanding. For any stock you're buying because of growth, ignore today's earnings number, focus on whether revenue is growing 20–40%+ a year and whether margins are improving. The market pays a premium for growth because growth compounds. A 30% grower at a 40× forward P/E is often a better buy than a 5% grower at 15×.

3. Trend & momentum, when to actually buy

Fundamentals tell you what to buy, trend and momentum help with when. A great company in a brutal downtrend can keep going down. You don't need to catch the exact bottom, but you also don't want to buy something running parabolic at the top. Two steps:

Step 1, Check the trend with SMAs (Simple Moving Averages). An SMA is just the average price over the last N days. The two that matter:

  • 200-day SMA, the long-term trend line. Price above it = uptrend, healthy. Below it = downtrend, be cautious. Most institutional money won't touch a stock trading under its 200-day, and they're usually right.
  • 50-day SMA, the medium-term trend. Shows the direction over the last ~2 months.
  • Golden cross, when the 50-day crosses above the 200-day. Bullish; often the start of a sustained uptrend.
  • Death cross, when the 50-day crosses below the 200-day. Bearish; often the start of a sustained downtrend.
Simplest rule for new investors

Only buy stocks trading above their 200-day SMA. You'll miss some early bottoms but you'll avoid the catastrophic mistake of catching falling knives, which is what wipes out most beginner portfolios.

Step 2, Time the entry with RSI (Relative Strength Index), a 0–100 score of how overbought or oversold a stock is over the past 14 days. Within a confirmed uptrend, this tells you when to add.

  • RSI above 70, overbought. The stock has run hard. Buying here often means buying right before a pullback. Wait, or trim if you already own it. Don't chase.
  • RSI below 30, oversold. Fear is washing out weak hands. Often the best entry zone for a name you already wanted to own.
  • Sweet spot, RSI 30–50 and turning up on a stock above its 200-day SMA. Confirmed trend + recent pullback = best risk-adjusted entry.

The combination is what makes this work: SMA tells you the direction, RSI tells you where in the move you are. A stock with RSI 30 above its 200-day is a buyable dip; the same RSI 30 below its 200-day is often a falling knife.

4. Sentiment, what is the market feeling?

Sentiment is the mood around a stock. When everyone is euphoric about a name, it's often near a top. When everyone hates it but the business is still solid, that's often opportunity. Warren Buffett's line: "Be fearful when others are greedy, and greedy when others are fearful."

5. Smart money signals, insiders & institutions

Two of the most underrated tools for retail investors: tracking what insiders (executives, directors) do with their own money, and what institutions (hedge funds, Berkshire, mutual funds) are buying and selling. These are public SEC filings, anyone can look, very few do.

Insider trading (the legal kind)

Every time a company insider buys or sells their own stock, they file Form 4 with the SEC within 2 days. You can see exactly who, when, how much, and at what price.

  • Insider buying is a strong signal. Insiders sell for many reasons (diversification, taxes, exercising options, paying for a house). They buy for one reason, they think the stock is going up. When the CEO or CFO buys with their own money on the open market, pay attention.
  • Cluster buys are even stronger. Three or more insiders buying in the same week = high-conviction signal.
  • Open-market purchases only. Ignore option exercises and 10b5-1 plans (pre-scheduled trades). Only direct open-market buys reflect real conviction.
  • Selling is mostly noise. Don't panic on routine insider sales. Worry only when it's unusually large or you see the entire C-suite dumping in a coordinated way.

Institutional trading (13F filings)

Any fund managing over $100M has to disclose its holdings quarterly via a 13F filing. There's a 45-day lag, but you can see exactly what Berkshire, Pershing Square, Tiger Global, ARK, Citadel, and every other big fund owns.

  • New institutional positions in a name = smart money getting interested.
  • Rising institutional ownership % = thesis being validated by big players.
  • Falling institutional ownership in a name where the news has turned = warning sign.
  • Watch the high-quality funds. Berkshire, Pershing Square, Baupost, Akre, their conviction picks are worth studying. Don't blindly copy fast-trading hedge funds whose holdings flip every quarter.
Where to actually look, all free

OpenInsider, best for Form 4 insider buying/selling data, filterable by company or insider.
Whalewisdom or Hedgefollow, 13F holdings by fund or by stock.
Finviz, each stock page has an "Insider Trading" tab.
SEC EDGAR, the raw filings themselves if you want primary sources.

How to use this in practice: not as your primary signal, fundamentals and trend come first. But once you've decided you like a stock, check whether insiders are buying and institutions are accumulating. Both yes = conviction goes up. Insiders dumping and institutions exiting = conviction goes down, even if everything else looks fine.

6. Sector growth, is the tide rising?

A mediocre company in a booming sector often beats a great company in a dying one. Ask: where is this industry going over the next 5–10 years? AI, energy transition, aging demographics, automation, these are tailwinds. Print media, cable TV, headwinds.

05Quality vs. speculative tiers

Not every stock in a portfolio plays the same role. I think about my holdings in three tiers, core, growth, and speculative. The tier determines the position size, how I judge it, and what would make me sell. This section is about the framework, the role each tier plays, not a list of names.

Tier 1 · Core

Quality compounders, the bedrock

Target: ~50% of stocks · Position size: 3–10% each · Hold forever unless thesis breaks

Profitable, dominant businesses in growing industries. The kind of companies that survived COVID, the 2022 selloff, and every other scare. You don't trade these, you compound with them. Their job is to be steady so the rest of the portfolio can take risk.

Tier 2 · Growth

High-conviction growth, the engine

Target: ~35% of stocks · Position size: 1–5% each · Re-check thesis each quarter

Real businesses with real revenue, but more expensive valuations or higher execution risk. The story has to keep delivering. These are the names that drive outperformance if I'm right, and if I'm wrong, the damage is contained because each position is sized smaller. Earnings reports actually matter here.

Tier 3 · Speculative

Lottery tickets, asymmetric small bets

Target: ~15% of stocks · Position size: 0.1–1% each · Expect ~half to fail

Micro-caps, pre-revenue companies, frontier tech. Could each 5–10x or go to zero. The portfolio approach is what makes this work: spread across many, accept most will die, let the survivors carry the basket. Never size big, the rule is "if it goes to zero tomorrow, do I shrug or panic?" If you'd panic, it's too big.

A warning on Tier 3

Speculative bets are fun, which is dangerous. Don't let them creep above ~15–20% of the portfolio. And remember: the headline ones (quantum, space, fusion) are the ones with the most narrative, which means they're often the most overhyped. Read the actual financials.

06When to sell (and when not to)

Let your winners ride

The most common mistake is selling winners too early. If you bought a great business and it's up 50%, the temptation is to "lock in the gain." But the biggest returns in investing come from holding multi-baggers for years. The math is brutal, selling a 10x winner at 2x means you missed 80% of the move.

Peter Lynch

"Selling your winners and holding your losers is like cutting the flowers and watering the weeds."

Trim, don't dump

When a winner gets euphoric, a parabolic move up, talking-heads everywhere, your barber giving stock tips, that's a good time to trim, not sell out. Take 20–30% off the table, lock in some gains, let the rest run. You stay in the game without being exposed to a violent correction.

When to actually sell

  • The thesis breaks. The reason you bought no longer holds, the business is shrinking, the moat is gone, management is acting badly.
  • Valuation gets absurd. Not just "expensive", historically, irrationally expensive. Trim aggressively.
  • You found something clearly better. Opportunity cost matters.
  • You need the money. Life happens. That's fine.
Don't sell because…

The market dropped 10%. There's a scary headline. A pundit on TV said it would crash. Your friend sold. None of these are reasons. They're noise.

07Common mistakes

  • Going all-in on day one. DCA in over months.
  • Putting too much in one stock. One bad earnings call can wipe out years of gains.
  • Chasing hot tips and meme stocks. If it's already on the news, you're late.
  • Panic selling in a downturn. Selling at the bottom is how losses become permanent.
  • Selling winners too early, holding losers too long. Backwards from what works.
  • Buying without a thesis. If you can't explain why you own it in two sentences, you don't own it, it owns you.
  • Checking the portfolio daily. Generates anxiety, encourages overtrading. Weekly or monthly is plenty.
  • Trying to time the market. Even pros are bad at this. Time in the market beats timing the market.

08Quick checklist before you buy

For a Tier 1 or Tier 2 buy (core / high-conviction growth):

  • I can explain what this business does in one sentence.
  • Revenue and earnings are growing (or have a clear path to growing).
  • Valuation ratios are reasonable vs. peers and history.
  • The sector has a long-term tailwind.
  • The stock is not in a violent downtrend.
  • This position will be sized appropriately for its tier (Tier 1: up to ~10%, Tier 2: 1–5%).
  • I plan to hold for at least 1–3 years, not days.
  • I'm DCA-ing in over time, not buying all at once.
  • I have a thesis I can write down, and I'll know if it breaks.

For a Tier 3 speculative bet, the bar is different:

  • The position is small enough that I'd shrug if it went to zero (typically under 1%).
  • The asymmetry is real, plausibly 5–10x upside if the story plays out.
  • I'm spreading the risk across a basket of them, not putting it all in one name.
  • I'm not buying it because I saw it on Reddit yesterday.

09The bottom line

Buy good businesses. Buy them at fair prices. Spread your bets but don't over-diversify. Get in slowly. Hold your winners. Cut your losers when the thesis breaks. Ignore the noise. Repeat for decades.

That's it. The hard part isn't the strategy, it's the discipline to stick with it when the market is screaming at you to panic. Most people fail at this. The ones who don't end up wealthy.